Hardiness zones is a climate mapping concept applied to the continent to give people some guidelines about what plants will survive where.
The North American model looks at variations from the Arctic to the tropical. A number system is used where the smaller the number [1] is the coldest, and larger [10] is the warmest. These ideas are based on the average extreme low winter temperatures. The zones vary greatly as we move around the continent as mountain ranges, oceans, and major climate patterns affect them.
Trees do not grow in zone 1 and somewhere as we head south we pass a line where northern trees, hard wired for deep cold, leaf loss and a dormant period of rest, are not happy. Apples are not grown in southern California and Florida, but oranges, lemons and grapefruits are.
Hardiness zones are not carved in stone, endless variations exist; as I said, they are guidelines. In the prairie west, gardeners are always looking for something new, some variety. As you move through the zones 1 - 10, the available number of plant varieties increases with each numerical increment. People are always going into British Columbia, falling in love with a Japanese maple at a nursery, bringing it home, planting it and in the spring finding that it is stone dead.
The concept also works like this: all zone 2 trees will do well in zone 3, all zone 3 trees will do well in zone 4, and on through the zones, limited only as I described, by the loss of a proper dormant period as we approach the tropics. The reverse, bringing a plant rated for a higher numbered zone to a lower is described above with the story of the zone 5 Japanese maple brought to zone 3.
I am a zone 3 arborist, from the chinook belt in Alberta. Chinooks are a local experience known only to the western areas adjacent to the Rocky Mountain front. A chinook is a period of extreme warm air and high winds that can change the temperature from -25°C overnight to +15°C in the following afternoon. The chinook can blow for a few days and be gone as quickly as it came, leaving the trees shaking their heads in puzzlement, and not a little stressed. All my experience comes from there. Zone 3 is a little unusual in its great breadth and most provinces of Canada from east to west have some area in zone 3, sometimes only a thin ribbon as seen on the hardiness map.
As for all models of classification, there are those who like to clump and those who like to split. There are models where zone 3 has its A, B, and C. This is fine, but when choosing your trees, always go with hardier rather than a variety yet unproven. You may live in zone 3, but in the chinook belt, when joking about our hardiness rating I say zone 3 slash 1.
The more severe your location, regardless of its zone rating, always choose the hardier varieties. Perhaps this is boring, but a dead tree, unable to withstand a severe winter, is also very boring. Plant rating can be useful for choosing appropriate plant material to survive in your zone, but be careful. Let some years go by, and keep track of how they do; the plant’s real hardiness test is a series of quirky winters.
Tree Care Articles
Hardiness Zones
- Details
- Written by Kevin R. Lee Kevin R. Lee
- Published: 02 December 2019 02 December 2019
Articles Index
- A Mind Set for Healthy Trees
- A New Tree Care Philosophy
- A Practical Working Model of Your Tree, Part One: Mostly Roots
- A Practical Working Model of Your Tree, Part Three: Leaves
- A Practical Working Model of Your Tree, Part Two: Trunk and Stem
- A weeping apple, some deer, and an arborist
- A Year in the Life of Your Tree - 1
- A Year In the Life of Your Tree - 2
- A Year In the Life of Your Tree - 3
- A Year In the Life of Your Tree - 4
- A Year In the Life of Your Tree - 5
- A Year In the Life of Your Tree - 6
- A Year In the Life of Your Tree - 7
- A Year in the Life of Your Tree - 8
- An arborist thinks on compartmentalization
- An Arborist's Education
- Ash Leaf-Cone Roller
- Ash Trees
- Aspens
- Birch
- Botany 1: The whole tree
- Botany 2: What do trees eat?
- Bud Scars
- Burning Bush
- Calgary Soils
- Calgary weather, snow pack, and the drought
- Calgary, from a tree's perspective
- Calgary's Most Dangerous, Dutch Elm Disease
- Calgary's most dangerous: Pseudomonas syringae
- Calgary’s most dangerous: Black knot
- Calgary’s Most Dangerous: Fire blight
- Calgary’s Most Dangerous: The Yellow-Headed Sawfly
- Caragana
- Caring For Your Trees This Winter
- Cell Walls
- Cherry Shrubs
- Cherry Trees
- Conifer Introduction
- Conifer Shrubs
- Conifers
- Cotoneaster
- Cranberries
- Currants
- Debunking Old Tree Myths
- Demystifying Tree Pruning
- Diagnosing Tree Problems
- Diplodia Gall of Poplar
- Dogwoods
- Dr. Alex Shigo
- Eating Apples and Other Hardy Prairie Fruit
- Elders
- Elms
- Epidermis
- Fall Needle Drop of Conifers
- Fertilizer
- Fertilizer 1
- Fertilizer 2: Trees
- First post Feb 23 2018
- Flowering Crabs
- Forsythia
- Fungal afflictions
- Growing Trees in Calgary
- Growing trees in Calgary, hands-on
- Haiku for spring
- Hardiness Zones
- Hawthorns
- Honeysuckles
- How to Have a Successful Tree
- Hydrangea
- In Defence, the Bronze Birch Borer (BBB)
- Introduction to Botany Talks
- Kate's Mayday
- Lack of connection
- Leaves
- Lilacs: French
- Lilacs: Pruning
- Linden
- List of Best Calgary Tree Choices - Evergreens
- Maintaining your pruning tools
- Maples
- Meristems: SAM and RAM
- Mid-Season Gratitude Post
- Mock Orange
- Mountain Ash
- Mugo Pines 1
- Mugo Pines 2
- Mugo Pines 3: Pruning
- My readers, my reasons
- Native Shrubs
- Needle Casts of Spruce
- Ninebark
- Oaks
- Ohio Buckeye
- Old Hacked Apple Trees -- Pruning a Tangle
- Organic Tree Work, Empowering Trees and People.
- Oyster Shell Scale
- Phloem
- Phomopsis Canker of Russian Olive
- Planting 1: Species selection
- Planting 2: Site selection
- Planting 3: Buying your tree
- Planting 4: Root crown identification
- Planting 5, Digging the hole, planting the tree
- Planting 6: Staking
- Planting 7: Watering
- Planting a Tree - Selection
- Planting a Tree - Setting, Staking and Watering
- Polemic and straight talk: the Swedish Columnar Aspen
- Poplars
- Proper Tree Pruning
- Pruning - More Reasons Why
- Pruning in Calgary with Nature in Mind
- Pruning Theory - Tools
- Pruning Theory - Why?
- Pruning tools you need
- Quotes
- Random thoughts from a Calgary Arborist and Tree Surgeon
- Reference books for Arboriculture
- Roots
- Russian Olive
- Septoria Canker on Poplar
- Shrub Introduction
- Shrub Pruning 1 - Theory
- Shrub Pruning 2 - Size Control
- Shrub Pruning 3 - Final
- Shrub Pruning for Size Control
- Shrub Pruning for Size Control 2
- Shrub Pruning Theory
- Slime Flux
- Soils - 1
- Soils - 2
- Spring?
- Stems
- Symptoms of a dry tree
- Symptoms of a sick tree
- The Mountain Ash
- The Three Cell Types
- Thinking of becoming an arborist?
- Toba Hawthorn: Pruning a tangle
- Tree Poem
- Tree Pruning Theory
- Tree Repair
- Tree Repair - 1
- Tree Repair - 2
- Tree Repair - 3
- Tree Repair - 4
- Trees and Their Interactions with Other Organisms
- Two Failures, Griffin Poplar, Manchurian Ash
- Vascular Cambium
- Walnuts
- Watering
- Watering a Birch
- Watering Calgary Trees
- Western Gall Rust of Pines
- What is Tree Whispering?
- When Should a Tree Be Removed?
- White Fly
- White Spruce
- Why is My Tree Dying?
- Willow Redgall sawfly
- Willows
- Wolf Willow
- Woolly Elm Aphid
- Xylem
- Yellow leaves: Chlorosis