There is a method of controlling shrub size and keeping flowers that gives an overall natural look. Briefly, we start the shrub on what I will call a recycling program. This method works on all shrubs. In fact, the more prolific the natural suckering, the better. This is what we are going to take advantage of—a shrub’s ability to grow new shoots after the stimulation of pruning out a percentage of its old branches.
Any eight-year-old shrub, pruned little during that time, will be a collection of branches whose ages vary from one to eight years old. It will be the old guys—the eights, sevens and six year-olds, that are outgrowing the space allotted or conceived, the ones that are reaching out to the point where the visual effect is impaired.
Shrub recycling work is best done in spring or fall, when you can see the structure without the leaves, leaving the plant untouched during the growing season. Using a hand saw or loppers, remove some or all of the old guys. Once these are removed, the shrub will look different. You might be done. Stand back and look. With a little touch on the sides, a bit of polish, this year’s work is done. This means that you have room in that spot perhaps for a six-year-old shrub of that variety.
Be patient. Let the shrub have its turn, you just had yours. Let one year go by, leaving the shrub to recover from the pruning. A year later from your spring or fall pruning, let’s inspect. The six-year-olds are now seven and there are lots of new shoots. Can you live with it another year? No, six years old seems to be what I prefer.
Great, let’s prune. Because there are so many small one-, two-, and three-year old shoots, let’s thin some of those, but not all. Any areas of the root crown that are overly thick with new shoots can be thinned. Use your Felco secateurs for this and cut to ground level.
The reason for thinning some of the smallest shoots is that we do not need them all. Those that we leave will be needed later. They are still producing energy for the plant.
Let another year go by and repeat the entire pruning cycle. Prune out the old guys, do some thinning of the overabundance of youngest shoots, and leave everything else alone.
Six years after initiating this process, we have done one complete recycle sequence. Now the old guys are the youngest shoots we left six years ago. None of the original shoots or branches remain. I have decided that, with this species in this place, a six-year-old shrub works. It looks good, has a natural form, flowers on the oldest branches, and keeps me occupied. Guests looking at this beautiful plant will never know what went into its creation. It doesn’t look pruned; it fits and looks great. And it is pretty much completely under control.
In theory, this practice will work for all shrubs. If the shrub doesn’t seem to be keeping up to this much pruning, try taking a year off. These are guidelines, not hard and fast rules.
Tree Care Articles
Shrub Pruning 2 - Size Control
- Details
- Written by Kevin R. Lee Kevin R. Lee
- Published: 29 December 2019 29 December 2019
Articles Index
- A Mind Set for Healthy Trees
- A New Tree Care Philosophy
- A Practical Working Model of Your Tree, Part One: Mostly Roots
- A Practical Working Model of Your Tree, Part Three: Leaves
- A Practical Working Model of Your Tree, Part Two: Trunk and Stem
- A weeping apple, some deer, and an arborist
- A Year in the Life of Your Tree - 1
- A Year In the Life of Your Tree - 2
- A Year In the Life of Your Tree - 3
- A Year In the Life of Your Tree - 4
- A Year In the Life of Your Tree - 5
- A Year In the Life of Your Tree - 6
- A Year In the Life of Your Tree - 7
- A Year in the Life of Your Tree - 8
- An arborist thinks on compartmentalization
- An Arborist's Education
- Ash Leaf-Cone Roller
- Ash Trees
- Aspens
- Birch
- Botany 1: The whole tree
- Botany 2: What do trees eat?
- Bud Scars
- Burning Bush
- Calgary Soils
- Calgary weather, snow pack, and the drought
- Calgary, from a tree's perspective
- Calgary's Most Dangerous, Dutch Elm Disease
- Calgary's most dangerous: Pseudomonas syringae
- Calgary’s most dangerous: Black knot
- Calgary’s Most Dangerous: Fire blight
- Calgary’s Most Dangerous: The Yellow-Headed Sawfly
- Caragana
- Caring For Your Trees This Winter
- Cell Walls
- Cherry Shrubs
- Cherry Trees
- Conifer Introduction
- Conifer Shrubs
- Conifers
- Cotoneaster
- Cranberries
- Currants
- Debunking Old Tree Myths
- Demystifying Tree Pruning
- Diagnosing Tree Problems
- Diplodia Gall of Poplar
- Dogwoods
- Dr. Alex Shigo
- Eating Apples and Other Hardy Prairie Fruit
- Elders
- Elms
- Epidermis
- Fall Needle Drop of Conifers
- Fertilizer
- Fertilizer 1
- Fertilizer 2: Trees
- First post Feb 23 2018
- Flowering Crabs
- Forsythia
- Fungal afflictions
- Growing Trees in Calgary
- Growing trees in Calgary, hands-on
- Haiku for spring
- Hardiness Zones
- Hawthorns
- Honeysuckles
- How to Have a Successful Tree
- Hydrangea
- In Defence, the Bronze Birch Borer (BBB)
- Introduction to Botany Talks
- Kate's Mayday
- Lack of connection
- Leaves
- Lilacs: French
- Lilacs: Pruning
- Linden
- List of Best Calgary Tree Choices - Evergreens
- Maintaining your pruning tools
- Maples
- Meristems: SAM and RAM
- Mid-Season Gratitude Post
- Mock Orange
- Mountain Ash
- Mugo Pines 1
- Mugo Pines 2
- Mugo Pines 3: Pruning
- My readers, my reasons
- Native Shrubs
- Needle Casts of Spruce
- Ninebark
- Oaks
- Ohio Buckeye
- Old Hacked Apple Trees -- Pruning a Tangle
- Organic Tree Work, Empowering Trees and People.
- Oyster Shell Scale
- Phloem
- Phomopsis Canker of Russian Olive
- Planting 1: Species selection
- Planting 2: Site selection
- Planting 3: Buying your tree
- Planting 4: Root crown identification
- Planting 5, Digging the hole, planting the tree
- Planting 6: Staking
- Planting 7: Watering
- Planting a Tree - Selection
- Planting a Tree - Setting, Staking and Watering
- Polemic and straight talk: the Swedish Columnar Aspen
- Poplars
- Proper Tree Pruning
- Pruning - More Reasons Why
- Pruning in Calgary with Nature in Mind
- Pruning Theory - Tools
- Pruning Theory - Why?
- Pruning tools you need
- Quotes
- Random thoughts from a Calgary Arborist and Tree Surgeon
- Reference books for Arboriculture
- Roots
- Russian Olive
- Septoria Canker on Poplar
- Shrub Introduction
- Shrub Pruning 1 - Theory
- Shrub Pruning 2 - Size Control
- Shrub Pruning 3 - Final
- Shrub Pruning for Size Control
- Shrub Pruning for Size Control 2
- Shrub Pruning Theory
- Slime Flux
- Soils - 1
- Soils - 2
- Spring?
- Stems
- Symptoms of a dry tree
- Symptoms of a sick tree
- The Mountain Ash
- The Three Cell Types
- Thinking of becoming an arborist?
- Toba Hawthorn: Pruning a tangle
- Tree Poem
- Tree Pruning Theory
- Tree Repair
- Tree Repair - 1
- Tree Repair - 2
- Tree Repair - 3
- Tree Repair - 4
- Trees and Their Interactions with Other Organisms
- Two Failures, Griffin Poplar, Manchurian Ash
- Vascular Cambium
- Walnuts
- Watering
- Watering a Birch
- Watering Calgary Trees
- Western Gall Rust of Pines
- What is Tree Whispering?
- When Should a Tree Be Removed?
- White Fly
- White Spruce
- Why is My Tree Dying?
- Willow Redgall sawfly
- Willows
- Wolf Willow
- Woolly Elm Aphid
- Xylem
- Yellow leaves: Chlorosis