Planting trees and watching them grow, thrive, and mature is one of the most rewarding experiences in life. There is no better gauge of the profound movement of our lives through time. Trees are used as markers of significant signposts in life: births, marriages, deaths. My father-in-law planted a flowering crab apple to mark the birth of each of his granddaughters. In a small town in Saskatchewan, those lovely pink flowering trees are still there, each planted for a baby girl who is now a woman—Charlotte, Jenny, Emma, and Sara.
This first part will deal with tree selection. The most important decision to be made is what species of tree? Many ideas can affect our decision process and that is good, but unless we have accurate information about the tree’s mature size, it is easy to make a big mistake. Check several references. Perhaps the best approach is to go and see the tree in an older neighbourhood.
Know that the choice you make, if it is uninformed, will cause trouble for you, your neighbours, and the tree itself. Many a large tree has been brutally pruned because it radically outgrew the space it was planted in. This does none of us any good. Firstly, these brutal images need to be removed from our world and from the public’s frame of reference so that they are not considered default practices. Secondly, they are ugly—an insult to the tree’s dignity.
Choose a species that works in the space available and everyone is happy—neighbours, homeowner, and tree. Where you plant a tree will have a profound impact on that space in the future. Planting too close to your neighbours may start a long-term conflict. Most of us are more territorial than we think; few of us are happy with the neighbour’s trees growing into our property. And yet, we all unthinkingly plant near the margins of our property to create the largest space within our own yards. Seriously take some time and use stakes to mark possible planting sites. Then hit the books again and re-evaluate.
Shade is a major concern for you and your neighbours. There are plenty of old fashioned farm-style spruce shelter belts in the city that produce a full shade year-round for the neighbours. With that light level, they can never be gardeners.
The change of seasons and the ebbing of light around the end of the year have a powerful effect on people. Try to arrange your trees so that you get some winter light. By the time of the winter equinox, we have less than eight hours from sunrise to sunset.
Planting for privacy is natural. We all need and deserve some. A green screen between decks is a good thing. Consider shrub material as a more manageable alternative to trees. Large shrubs are sometimes all that small urban lots require.
A trip to a nursery or garden centre can be a daunting experience. So many choices, so many trees. Here is the tree I want, but there are 23 of them. Which one? Before you get to the retail stage, I hope you have done your homework. Site and species and hardiness rating are very important. The tree you choose should be as healthy as possible. Look for rich, vigorous foliage. Check the shoot extensions for last year’s growth.
Now look at the trunk. If it is wrapped with paper or something else, remove this so you can see all of the bark. Do not buy a tree that has wounds in the bark. These wounds cause problems.
Look closely at the trunk and branches. How the branches are formed and attached to the trunk is very important. Check the angles between the trunk and branch. What we want are wider U-shaped junctions between trunk and branch rather than narrower, tight V-shaped junctions.
If you have found a vigorous tree with a good history of shoot extensions and without any included bark, you should buy that tree!
Tree Care Articles
Planting a Tree - Selection
- Details
- Written by Kevin R. Lee Kevin R. Lee
- Published: 22 December 2019 22 December 2019
Articles Index
- A Mind Set for Healthy Trees
- A New Tree Care Philosophy
- A Practical Working Model of Your Tree, Part One: Mostly Roots
- A Practical Working Model of Your Tree, Part Three: Leaves
- A Practical Working Model of Your Tree, Part Two: Trunk and Stem
- A weeping apple, some deer, and an arborist
- A Year in the Life of Your Tree - 1
- A Year In the Life of Your Tree - 2
- A Year In the Life of Your Tree - 3
- A Year In the Life of Your Tree - 4
- A Year In the Life of Your Tree - 5
- A Year In the Life of Your Tree - 6
- A Year In the Life of Your Tree - 7
- A Year in the Life of Your Tree - 8
- An arborist thinks on compartmentalization
- An Arborist's Education
- Ash Leaf-Cone Roller
- Ash Trees
- Aspens
- Birch
- Botany 1: The whole tree
- Botany 2: What do trees eat?
- Bud Scars
- Burning Bush
- Calgary Soils
- Calgary weather, snow pack, and the drought
- Calgary, from a tree's perspective
- Calgary's Most Dangerous, Dutch Elm Disease
- Calgary's most dangerous: Pseudomonas syringae
- Calgary’s most dangerous: Black knot
- Calgary’s Most Dangerous: Fire blight
- Calgary’s Most Dangerous: The Yellow-Headed Sawfly
- Caragana
- Caring For Your Trees This Winter
- Cell Walls
- Cherry Shrubs
- Cherry Trees
- Conifer Introduction
- Conifer Shrubs
- Conifers
- Cotoneaster
- Cranberries
- Currants
- Debunking Old Tree Myths
- Demystifying Tree Pruning
- Diagnosing Tree Problems
- Diplodia Gall of Poplar
- Dogwoods
- Dr. Alex Shigo
- Eating Apples and Other Hardy Prairie Fruit
- Elders
- Elms
- Epidermis
- Fall Needle Drop of Conifers
- Fertilizer
- Fertilizer 1
- Fertilizer 2: Trees
- First post Feb 23 2018
- Flowering Crabs
- Forsythia
- Fungal afflictions
- Growing Trees in Calgary
- Growing trees in Calgary, hands-on
- Haiku for spring
- Hardiness Zones
- Hawthorns
- Honeysuckles
- How to Have a Successful Tree
- Hydrangea
- In Defence, the Bronze Birch Borer (BBB)
- Introduction to Botany Talks
- Kate's Mayday
- Lack of connection
- Leaves
- Lilacs: French
- Lilacs: Pruning
- Linden
- List of Best Calgary Tree Choices - Evergreens
- Maintaining your pruning tools
- Maples
- Meristems: SAM and RAM
- Mid-Season Gratitude Post
- Mock Orange
- Mountain Ash
- Mugo Pines 1
- Mugo Pines 2
- Mugo Pines 3: Pruning
- My readers, my reasons
- Native Shrubs
- Needle Casts of Spruce
- Ninebark
- Oaks
- Ohio Buckeye
- Old Hacked Apple Trees -- Pruning a Tangle
- Organic Tree Work, Empowering Trees and People.
- Oyster Shell Scale
- Phloem
- Phomopsis Canker of Russian Olive
- Planting 1: Species selection
- Planting 2: Site selection
- Planting 3: Buying your tree
- Planting 4: Root crown identification
- Planting 5, Digging the hole, planting the tree
- Planting 6: Staking
- Planting 7: Watering
- Planting a Tree - Selection
- Planting a Tree - Setting, Staking and Watering
- Polemic and straight talk: the Swedish Columnar Aspen
- Poplars
- Proper Tree Pruning
- Pruning - More Reasons Why
- Pruning in Calgary with Nature in Mind
- Pruning Theory - Tools
- Pruning Theory - Why?
- Pruning tools you need
- Quotes
- Random thoughts from a Calgary Arborist and Tree Surgeon
- Reference books for Arboriculture
- Roots
- Russian Olive
- Septoria Canker on Poplar
- Shrub Introduction
- Shrub Pruning 1 - Theory
- Shrub Pruning 2 - Size Control
- Shrub Pruning 3 - Final
- Shrub Pruning for Size Control
- Shrub Pruning for Size Control 2
- Shrub Pruning Theory
- Slime Flux
- Soils - 1
- Soils - 2
- Spring?
- Stems
- Symptoms of a dry tree
- Symptoms of a sick tree
- The Mountain Ash
- The Three Cell Types
- Thinking of becoming an arborist?
- Toba Hawthorn: Pruning a tangle
- Tree Poem
- Tree Pruning Theory
- Tree Repair
- Tree Repair - 1
- Tree Repair - 2
- Tree Repair - 3
- Tree Repair - 4
- Trees and Their Interactions with Other Organisms
- Two Failures, Griffin Poplar, Manchurian Ash
- Vascular Cambium
- Walnuts
- Watering
- Watering a Birch
- Watering Calgary Trees
- Western Gall Rust of Pines
- What is Tree Whispering?
- When Should a Tree Be Removed?
- White Fly
- White Spruce
- Why is My Tree Dying?
- Willow Redgall sawfly
- Willows
- Wolf Willow
- Woolly Elm Aphid
- Xylem
- Yellow leaves: Chlorosis